Beginner

How to Choose Your First Japanese Knife

By Ben Stieger, Founder of Chefs Edge
3:18 watch
Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0:29 Blade shape (Gyuto, Bunka, Santoku)
1:31 Carbon vs stainless steel
2:35 Blade finishes
2:59 Choosing your knife

If you feel overwhelmed trying to decide on your first Japanese knife, you are not alone. The huge number of blade shapes, sizes, steel types, and finishes gets confusing fast. The good news: choosing your first knife is actually simple once you cut through the noise and focus on a few key things. Let's jump in.

Start with the blade shape

There are countless blade shapes in the Japanese knife world, but for your first knife you really only need to consider two or three.

The first is the Gyuto. It is a general-purpose, double-bevel blade that handles any daily prep you throw at it, from small and large vegetables to medium cuts of protein like chicken breast or portioned beef. The 210mm edge length is the most common. Prefer something smaller? Go 180mm. Prefer a larger knife? Go 240mm.

The second and third options are the Bunka and the Santoku. If you are not cutting larger vegetables or larger cuts of meat, these are ideal. They usually run between 160mm and 180mm and make a perfect smaller general-purpose blade. The Santoku has a rounded bullnose shape; the Bunka has a more aggressive k-tip for finer work.

Choose your steel

Japanese knife steels fall into two main groups: carbon and stainless, with some semi-stainless in between. Stainless is easier to care for and more resistant to corrosion. Carbon can develop rust spots even if left wet for a short time. For your first Japanese knife we always recommend stainless, as it is the easiest to care for. You still need to dry it after use, but it will not rust within minutes of being left wet like some carbon steel can.

There are four main Japanese stainless steels to pick from: AUS-8, VG-10, Ginsan, and SG-2. AUS-8 (and AUS-10) is the most beginner-friendly, budget-friendly option, SG-2 is the high-end premium choice, and Ginsan and VG-10 sit somewhere in between. As a rule of thumb, the harder the steel (its HRC rating), the more expensive it is to produce, and the longer it holds its edge. The budget-friendly options use a slightly softer steel, so they will not hold their edge as long.

Pick your finish

There are many finishes: Damascus layering, the Tsuchime hammered pattern, Kurouchi (the black finish), Migaki (polished), and Nishiji (textured). For most of these, the finish is purely aesthetic and does not affect cutting performance, so you are free to pick whichever you find most attractive.

That's it

Now you know you want a Gyuto, Bunka, or Santoku, in a stainless steel like AUS-8, VG-10, Ginsan, or SG-2. With that, you can confidently browse the range, find the best knife for you and your budget. If you have any other questions, reach out and we will be happy to help.

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Frequently Asked
Do I need a Japanese knife, or is a Western knife fine to start?

A Western knife is fine. But if you are reading this, you already know what a good knife feels like and want more. Japanese knives are thinner, lighter and sharper than Western knives, which makes prep faster and more enjoyable. They also hold their edge longer. Once you have used one, going back to a heavy Western knife feels like driving with the handbrake on.

How much should I spend on my first Japanese knife?

$180 to $260 gets you a real hand-made Japanese knife from a working blacksmith. Below that you are usually looking at machine-made blades finished to look Japanese. Above $300 you are paying for premium steel, better finishing, or a specific maker. There is no reason to spend more than $250 on your first knife. Get one that fits your hand and use it.

Is a Japanese knife hard to look after?

Not if it is stainless. Wipe it dry after use, keep it off glass or stone cutting boards, and don't put it in the dishwasher. That is the whole routine. Carbon steel needs a bit more care because it reacts with acidic food and can rust if left wet, which is why we recommend stainless for your first knife. Once you have lived with a Japanese knife for a few months, moving to carbon later is easy.

What size should I choose, 210mm or 240mm?

210mm suits most home kitchens and most hand sizes. If you have a large chopping board and long counter space, 240mm gives you more blade to work with and is what most professional chefs use. If you are unsure, go 210mm. It is the size that fits the most people in the most kitchens.

Do I need to sharpen it myself?

Not straight away. A new Japanese knife will hold its edge for months of home use before it needs anything more than a strop or ceramic rod. When it does need proper sharpening, you have three options: learn to do it on a whetstone (we run a class in Perth), send it back to us, or take it to a local sharpener. Learning to sharpen is the single skill that changes your relationship with your knife the most, so most of our customers eventually take our class.